Jacksonville FL 12-4-2013

Hurrying on to Jacksonville
We had to get through the ready-to-fail RR bridge before it shuts down for a week of repairs.  But when we woke at 6:00 AM on Tuesday to get a 6:30 start we were fogged in completely.   Any delay and we would have to wait until 7:00 PM for the next bridge opening and that would mean docking in the dark.  Not good!  We decided to head out at 7 mph until the fog lifted with the sunrise.  We had only seen several boats all the previous day so we thought we had only a small chance of an encounter.  There won't be any other boats out there.  Right?  Who in their right mind would venture out in this fog?  We ran a course parallel to the charted channel but 200 yards to the west so that we would hopefully avoid a collision with another vessel.  We could see only about 100 yards at best and crab trap floats would regularly suddenly appear and we had to swerve around each of the hundreds that we encountered. The fog did not lift until three hours later.  Gosh, talk about neck and back muscles contracting!

Almost total whiteout

Ah! The sun is up.  But the fog became harder to see through.  We started seeing land mirages.



That is not a mirage. There is the bridge at Glen Cove Springs. Amazingly, we were right on target.
 After this bridge the fog cleared completely in about 10 minutes.  Whew!

NAS Jax where Wayne worked as a student engineer in 1966 and 1967.

The Navy is still flying Orions, albeit a much newer P3 model, in search of Russian subs.

Finally, the sight we've been waiting to see!

Two days of pushing hard and finally Jacksonville

We made it to the bridge over an hour before it was supposed to open at 2:00 so we waited just off the channel.  Both of us were thrilled when the guys working the bridge took pity on us and opened it twenty minutes early.  We cruised on through and tied up to the Jacksonville Landing.  We can stay here for FREE for 72 hours.  No water, no shore power but no problem - we carry our own.




This is the cause of our consternation, the Fla. East Coast Railway bridge.
There has been a RR bridge here since the 1860s.  This one looks like it was built in the 1800s!
Here you see it in its coveted raised position.

 

 Jacksonville views on Tuesday

 

Very cool lift bridge.  This thing is really big. 
We walked across it to meet our friend Roger and the lift section is about 250 feet wide. 
At night, as pedestrians cross it we can see their huge shadows on the buildings behind.

 



A barge pushed by a tug that floated past our boat



Here you can see some of the five bridges within a mile of each other along
 this stretch of the river.

Unexpected Repairs on Wednesday

Wayne ended up with a lukewarm shower this morning.  So as a courtesy to Colleen, he fired up the gen set to run the hot water heater and heat some water for her shower. The result was SQEALLLLLLL !!!  Wayne quickly shut down the gen set.  An inspection of the belts showed immediately that the belt to the cooling water pump pulley was not turning and the belt was being burned up.  The pump had to be removed to determine whether it was an impeller problem or a bearing seizing.  When the cover was removed, the pump spun smoothly without binding. The shaft spun freely after the impeller was removed from the housing.  Years ago I ran into an impeller that had swelled in thickness and bound against the housing and cover plate.  Due to tight funding then, I ground the impeller a little and put it back in place and it has pumped fine for the last 20 years.  This time I installed the new spare impeller and O-ring that I had in stock.  The pump and hoses were reattached, the system was tested and we were back making hot water.

Note:  We did not need the generator to charge the batteries today---the newly installed solar system is keeping the batteries charged.  Hooray!



Removing the generator water pump to see why it will not turn.
Back into the hold, matey! 
Get to work.



Surgery complete!  The organ is in my hands.



The impeller and pump looked good but the impeller bound too tightly against the housing when the cover was tightened.
This impeller was installed last spring and should still be good.





We had a spare impeller aboard so I replaced it and the pump turned smoothly.
No breakfast.  Cold cup of coffee. No hair brush yet.  No teeth brushed yet either.
She said get the repairs done first!




OK.  Now can I get hot water for a shower? 
And then I'll fix you your favorite oatmeal

Fog Again!

 Wednesday morning the fog rolled in about 7AM.  It's a good thing we decided to stay here for at least one more day.




Not the best weather for navigating a narrowing waterway and maneuvering bridges



The fog did not start to clear until about 11AM

11:15 and all the fog has finally vanished






We hopped the water taxi that took us on a quick trip across the river and visited the
 Jacksonville Museum of Science and History, known as MOSH hereabouts.
 



An owl that Colleen liked at the museum.  He fixed his eyes on her as she tried to take his picture
exactly as he would have zeroed in on some tasty prey.

Fountain in Freedom Park across the river

 Choose the best photo
What a beautiful day it turned out to be.


Wayne's photo choice.  Our boat is far left.

 

Colleen's photo choice.  Which do you like?

 



Statue of Andrew Jackson for whom Jacksonville was named.

 

Our friend Roger had business in Jax and stopped by.
We were stranded on the other side of the river waiting on the water taxi. 
We walked over the lift bridge instead and beat the water taxi and had a nice (short) visit with Roger.

 

 

Nov 27 - Dec 2 Thanksgiving Week and Heading back North to Jacksonville

THANKSGIVING IN STYLE

We traveled to Colleen’s childhood friend Marla’s house to share Thanksgiving with her and 24 other friends and family members.  Thanks for including us, Marla.  And, especially thanks for sharing your washer and dryer.  With Marla’s and Barbie’s generosity we have yet to endure marina laundromats.  Believe me, given the iffy state of many marina washers and dryers, that’s a big deal.  Additionally, both have shared their showers with us, a real treat when one lives on a boat.

Thanksgiving Feast at Marla's

 

Plenty of food for all twenty-six of us

 

Before we returned to the marina in Sanford we stopped off at Harbortown Marina in Merritt Island, FL to make reservations to stay there the month of December.  This has been our December stopoff point on the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway for the past three years.  It recommends itself not because of superior accommodations (you may recall we’ve complained about their laundry area and narrow old docks in years past) but because it’s close to our friends Roger and Marcy and also Marla as well as family members in Orlando.  We walked the docks with a list of available slips and found one we thought we would like and then arranged to be there by December 9^th.  The price has gone way up.  Ouch!  We’ll be there anyway.  Drop by if you can.

BOAT ISSUES

We wanted to pump out our holding tanks (i.e. sewage) before we left Sanford but our boat would not fit the space at the marina fuel dock and still have the pump out hose reach our boat.  We actually did not have to be pumped out yet.  We just wanted to be ahead of the game.

 We had also hoped to fuel up while we were in Sanford but there were only gas pumps on the dock.  “No problem,” said the marina office.  “We can get a tank truck to come to the dock and fuel you up.”  Sure enough, next day a 2,700 gallon tank truck pulled up to the fixed dock near our boat, handed over the hose and stood by while we pumped in 155 gallons.  Average cost/gallon - $4.03.  Gasp!! 

A new problem is creeping up.  Our starboard starter motor does not engage with the first turn of the ignition key.  It starts only on the second turn.  We know that it will fail sometime soon.  So…when we get to Merritt Island out it comes for repair or replacement.  Oh goody..it is on the inaccessible side of the motor!

We have been considering how we will get back on the boat should we fall overboard.  Our swim ladder is blocked by the dinghy and the dinghy will have to be lowered and unsnapped from its davits to gain access to the swim ladder.  We have a knotted rope that we use to pull ourselves onto the boat when we dock at a low fixed dock.  We will also be able to quickly attach this rope to a cleat at our stern to give someone in the water a good grip to hang onto during dinghy removal.   We may also be able to pull up onto the swim platform with this rope.  Anyway, it is another method for recovery if we fall overboard.  Wayne is always considering the whatifs.

Rescue Rope

 SANFORD ANIMALS PICTS 



The only turtle that did NOT jump into the water when we wanted a look

 

 

Friendly Blue Heron posing in front of our boat



 

MORE VISITS FROM FRIENDS AND RELATIONS

Sunday, December 1^st  brought a real treat to the docks.  We’d arranged for Colleen’s cousin Midge and her husband Earl to visit that day.  Then Wayne called his cousin Victor to let him know that we wouldn’t be able to stop back at their house as we traveled north.  This is because the old railroad bridge in Jacksonville is broken and is on a limited opening schedule.  For the week between December 6^th-13^th  the bridge will be completely closed for repair.  Therefore, we need to hustle to get to and through the bridge before we get trapped on the St. John’s River side for a week.

 Vic said, “Well, then we’ll come and see you.”  Super.  The more the merrier.  While we were all at lunch Orlando friends Pam and Richard called to say they would be near Sanford in an hour-and-a-half.  Could they stop by?  Sure, come on over.  The result was a fun lunch and visit with people we enjoy.  Oh, and Midge and I made her a pencil holder just like the one I’d already done with Barbie and sister-in-law Patty.

COUSINS PHOTO

Colleen with her cousin Midge

 



From left:  Earl, Midge, Wayne, Colleen, Barbie, Victor
We neglected to take photos of Pam and Richard.  Very sorry guys.

 SAYING GOOD-BYE TO SANFORD

December 2^nd we made a very early start, pulling out of the marina in a just-lifting fog and chilly weather.  We were determined to cover as many miles as possible in our quest to get to Jacksonville before the bridge issue stalled us.  So breakfast had to wait until we were underway.  Once we were comfortably on the river Colleen made one of our favorites – Bob’s Red Mill Oatmeal

Here’s the recipe for two servings:

2/3 cup Bob’s Red Mill Oatmeal (not the steel cut variety)

1 1/3 cup water

A sprinkle of salt

1/8 cup of dried cranberries or raisins

Put all into a large, microwave safe bowl and cook for 3 minutes.  Stir and cook for an additional 1-2 minutes.  Spike it with brown sugar, butter and milk



A pitiful sight of a starving man!

VIEWS OF THE RIVER TODAY

About an hour into today's trip.  No sun anywhere

Invasive water hyancinths lay on the river's surface like blankets



Blue sky just starting to show around 1:00 PM



Gulls catching minnows in our wake on Lake George.
Wow...18.4mph

We traveled over eighty miles today, burning up the water at a sizzling ten miles an hour and eighteen mph over Lake George…on plane.  We don’t even want to consider how much diesel fuel ($$$) we used in that 45 minutes.  Monday night (tonight) we anchored in the river about twelve miles north of Palatka, FL.  We can see several homes about 500 yards from us but it still feels like we are in the middle of nowhere.  Oh, what stars are on view tonight!!  No one out here tonight but us and the Navy helicopters from NAS Jax.  We calculate that we can make the restricted RR bridge opening at 2:00-3:00 PM tomorrow (Tuesday).  Stay tuned for the next exciting installment.

On South - Astor to Hontoon Island and Sanford, FL

Astor, FL - Leaving cousin Vic's and Barbie's home

We bid a fond farewell to Vic and Barbie on Friday, November 22.  Wayne and Vic had a bit of sewing fun as Wayne used his new found skills to repair some of Victor's boat canvas.  Notice the spiffy red-and-white boat to the right of Cool Change.  At the same time, Barbie and Colleen huddled around Colleen's sewing machine and Barbie made herself a cute little pencil (or sewing tool) holder.  A good time was had by all.





V & B's Marina




Captain, can we get out of here without knocking down any trees?

We made our way carefully through the narrow residential canals to return to the St. John's.  The weatherman had predicted rain and he did not disappoint.  Ten minutes into the trip it began to rain and we were glad of the short run to Hontoon Island State Park.  Even in the light rain that came and went, the river was beautiful.

A few St. Johns River Facts

The St. Johns River is the longest river in Florida.  It's 310 miles long and it winds through or borders twelve counties. The St. Johns has a very low flow rate, 0.3 mph as it meanders through the state from around Vero Beach lowlands to Jacksonville.  It really doesn't become a navigable river until it reaches Sanford, 140 miles south of Jacksonville.  It is one of the few rivers in the US which flows north.  From 1700 through the 1800s the river was the main highway into the interior lands.  Roads were non-existent at the time.



Out on the river



The waterway we followed is the yellow winding line.
We pretty much had to travel eight miles in all four directions of
 the compass to cover five miles as the crow flies.

The St Johns river has not changed much since the days in the 1950's and 60's when Wayne fished in the river and the lakes and camped on the shore.  


Real river homes
 



Our typical view of the inhabited sections of the river

 Hontoon Island State Park

Hontoon was the destination of many boat trips when we boated in Florida with our boys.  Accessible only by boat or ferry the island features a nature walk that winds past an Indian mound and other family friendly outdoor activities.  Unfortunately, the lookout tower that was here in the old days is no longer standing.


Houseboats for rent at Hontoon Landings near Deland, FL



View from our boat docked at Hontoon Island State Park. 
Park office, small museum and restroom facilities

We were assigned an end spot on the westernmost dock and enjoyed a solitary evening, just us and the birds and alligators.  Oh, and one more critter.  In the morning, as Wayne walked up the gangway from the dock to the shore, he encountered a three foot water moccasin lying in his path.  Luckily, he was armed with a lethal garbage bag and just swept the snake off the dock.  The next morning we were awakened by sandhill cranes, large water birds with a cry similar to that of peacocks.  You won't sleep in once they begin their wakeup call.



View east and south towards Lake Beresford



View north of Hontoon Landings marina and hotel



Hontoon Landings Office and store
Boat rentals also



The camera does not do justice to this magnificent live oak



A small and cute riverboat passing us  at Hontoon Island



A Hontoon Island resident sand hill crane.
A gator was on the shore about 50 feet away.
You can see him if you look at the dark mark at the top of the photo in the middle.

A red shouldered hawk that Colleen sneaked up on



Resident heron on the dock.  There's something about his stance that
tickles my funny bone.



View of docks from ferry landing.  Cool Change is at the end of the dock on the left.

Visits From Friends and Relations

If we thought last year's trip was the people cruise, we're thinking this year is a people cruise also.  On Saturday the 23rd friends Bob and Debbie picked us up for lunch and a visit to their house.  Bob worked for us as the service manager when we owned our bicycle and lawn mower business in Orlando.  Bob and Wayne had not gotten together for over ten years.  Debbie and I enjoyed lots of "grandma talk" while Wayne and Bob caught up and admired Bob's babes (see below).



Debbie and Bob with us at lunch



Bob's babes

 



Colleen's cousin Tony came to visit

 Colleen's cousin, Tony, came to have lunch on the boat with us on November 24 and then took us on a tour of downtown Deland, the home of Stetson University.  Stetson is the alma mater of numerous family members on Colleen's side of the family so it was fun to walk around this beautiful campus and imagine the family footsteps that have walked the same paths.  Wayne's mother's family and Colleen's maternal grandmother's family lived in Deland at the same time in the 1920's and 30's and knew each other (Deland was a pretty small town in those days), long before Colleen and Wayne encountered each other at the Orange County Science Fair in 1965.  A downtown Art Show was underway and we spent a little time there until the wind gusts drove us away.



Worlds Fair fountain brought to Stetson campus



A Stetson University building



President's house at Stetson.  We were told that this was a Sears mail
order home early in the 1900s, purchased by a private individual,
 and eventually left to the university.



A residence hall, vintage 1890s

Thanks, Tony, we had fun and look forward to seeing you again.


Onward to Sanford



Florida clouds - There's nothing like the variety you will see here

On Monday the 25th we left Hontoon Island early to avoid predicted high winds later in the day.  Our big concern was whether we could maneuver the dock at Boat Tree Marina in Sanford where we planned to stop for several days.  There was a lot of gusty wind but Wayne handled the docking with the skilled aplomb he's developed over the past three winters and now we're settled in for a week.  First order of business - rent a car to take us back up to Jacksonville to pick up our car.  The trip that took us seven days in the boat (counting visits along the way) took two-and-a-half hours by car.  Nice to have wheels!

On Tuesday we welcomed Wayne's brother, Harlan, and his wife, Patty onto the boat.  We all went out to lunch and then went grocery shopping together.  Back at the boat later Patty showed me some iPad tricks while I stitched up the same pencil holder that Barbie had made with fabrics Patty chose from my onboard stash.

 



Wayne's sister-in-law Pat and his brother, Harlan

Ready to fill with pens and pencils, just what Teacher Patty needs

Steamboats were the main transportation mode for the north Florida interior before 1900 when the railroads pushed south into the state.